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Mark the wall and ceiling projections given for the cornice by chalking those
measurements on the wall and ceiling.
Chip and scratch the wall and ceilings between the chalked measurement lines every
8 to 12 inches to assure a good bond between the surface of the wall and moulding.
Set a few of finishing nails on the bottom of chalk line to rest the moulding upon after
the moulding adhesive has been applied to the back of the moulding.
Apply moulding adhesive to the bottom and top edges of the moulding and lift into
place, resting it on the finishing nails. Set a couple of finishing nails on top of the
moulding (angled downward) in order to hold the piece while finishing the edges and
joints.
Edges and joints are filled with plaster, which oozes out along the edges when moulding
is pressed into place. This excess can then be wiped off.
Moulding are cut bottom side up with any fine-toothed handsaw in a miter box. Cut
the first length of mouldings with a 45° mitre on one end to begin in one corner of the
room. If a larger box is built to accommodate a larger moulding, spacer blocks can be
used to position the ceiling and wall dimensions of the given moulding.
If the moulding has a long repeat pattern, consider beginning in the most conspicuous
outside corner of the room and proceed to the most inconspicuous inside corner, since the
pattern may not match exactly in all corners. Remember that a considerable amount
of wastage may occur with longer repeat patterns.
Mis the Dura Bond 90™ or equivalent plaster glue to a thick creamy consistency as
per instructions.
Place lengths of moulding against the surface. If the walls or ceiling are not straight
or square, some fitting will be necessary. The mouldings are rigid and must be installed
in a straight line, so any deviancy in the walls or ceilings can then b filled with the
plaster in order to give the appearance of a straight surface. Mouldings are often
used in this way to “straighten” uneven surfaces.
When joining two lengths of moulding at a butt joint, assure the two faces are flush
by wedging one piece or shaving the other piece on the back of the moulding. The
seam is then filled with plaster and wiped smooth. |
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